Travel, especially to far-flung locales, is always in pursuit of the sublime. We’re all looking for a bit of transcendence when we leave the shelter of our homes and the routines of our daily life. And as a seasoned travel writer, I’ve learned that this desire for escape is satiated in some destinations better than others. It’s not just the physical distance and the visual stimulation of a landscape that’s entirely new — it’s also the metaphysical (dare I say: spiritual?) experience of feeling transported to a different way of living, and a different way of thinking about the world.
I knew I’d arrived in a country that would entirely upend and exceed any expectations the moment I landed in Hanoi. After 26+ hours of travel, to say I was jetlagged or distracted would be an understatement. I’d booked an airport hotel on a budget, as I was only spending about 10 hours in the city in total — a quick overnight stay before my flight to Da Nang. I was navigating the chaotic arrivals gate when, to my immense surprise, I received a WhatsApp message from the hotel manager asking my location, and personally connecting me with a driver — free of charge. In America, an airport pickup for a budget hotel would be at extra cost and arranged by the visitor, but in Vietnam, apparently, this kind of hospitality is par for the course — and to be expected.
I’ve visited 86 countries in my career, and the top takeaway I’ve found is that travel, truly, is meeting new people. The locals are the lens through which you understand a destination, and its spirituality, and Vietnam is worth visiting for its cultural heritage alone. Of course, the landscapes are breathtaking, too. For a country that’s half the size of France, or slightly larger than the state of New Mexico, Vietnam is an endless delight — from the Bach Ma Mountains to the East Sea, to the glittering cities with their glowing lanterns, green courtyards, and always-buzzing motorbike traffic. Read on for your guide to the beauty and magic of Vietnam.
Da Nang: Tia Wellness Resort
(Image provided by Katherine Parker-Magyar)
Vietnam is the perfect portal for first-time travelers and experienced visitors alike, to Southeast Asia. Vietnam was my first experience in the region — the first leg of a trip that would lead me further across the region, to Cambodia and Thailand — and I can’t imagine a better place to start than the gold-sand beaches of Da Nang, within the serene sanctuary of Tia Wellness Resort. The morning after my arrival in Hanoi, I boarded a roughly hour-long flight from Hanoi to this beautiful coastal city along the South Vietnam Sea.
Tia Wellness Resort provides the perfect beachside setup for travelers looking to relax after a long flight and set their intentions for the rest of their stay. The palm tree-lined walkways of the resort offer an immediate sense of serenity and peace, and the chicly appointed private villas are stylish havens of luxury, with plunge pools and garden courtyards. Guests can swim and surf the stunning azure waters off the coast, and dine on incredibly fresh, locally sourced cuisine (order the banh mi), and sample the organic and biodynamic wine list.
Tia includes two 80-minute treatments per day per guest, included in the nightly rates. The extensive spa menu allows guests to go beyond the usual massages to try something new and different, such as sound healing, Himalayan heart stone therapy, Japanese Reiki, or crystal wands. If you’d told me, before I’d arrived, that I’d have been most moved by the inner child workshops or the breathwork classes, I wouldn’t have believed you. But I found the inner calm I felt after each treatment to be undeniable. In addition to the inclusive spa treatments, TIA Wellness Resort also offers daily complimentary activities, which guests are encouraged to integrate into their holidays. Put together your own program from the array of daily yoga classes, creative workshops, and mindfulness practices. These classes are supposed to prevent overthinking, and I found them to help me be more present when I went out exploring.
Hiking the nearby Marble Mountains is an absolute must during your visit, and I set out for a sunrise hike to Chùa Tam Thai, the Water Mountain, where I practiced Tai Chi amidst the early-morning silence of the mountaintop. Buddhist statues are scattered across the forested mountainside, and the inner caves contain centuries of history — crucially, as a strategizing center for the Vietnam War (but more on that later).
Another excursion I loved was the afternoon visit to Hoi An, which is famous for its lanterns — every evening, the city magically transforms into a twinkling paradise at twilight. This 15th-century city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and reminded me of a mixture between Beijing (the lanterns in the trees), and Venice, with its gondolas cruising down the riverside. It’s one of the most dazzling sites I’ve ever seen, and a can’t-miss stop during your stay in Da Nang.
Hue: Alba Wellness Valley
(Image provided by Katherine Parker-Magyar)
We are hopping from one UNESCO World Heritage Site to another, with the next step on our Vietnamese voyage: the ancient capital of Hue, which was established as the nation’s capital in 1802. The trip from Da Nang to Hue involved an endlessly scenic two-hour drive through the beautiful Bach Ma Mountains, the cliffside roads providing endless photo opportunities of the coastline and panoramic views of the water below (it was all very Big Little Lies).
And, just as Ha Long Bay is currently more well-known and popular than Da Nang Bay, Hue is similarly undiscovered. Most visitors frequent Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, and therefore Hue remains incredibly under-the-radar, despite being rich in history and culture. (It’s unlikely to remain a hidden gem to international tourists for long, so visit now!) When visiting the ancient city, sign up with a knowledgeable tour guide for extra history and context. And be sure to dress appropriately — always cover your shoulders and knees when visiting Buddhist temples. (Buddhism is the leading religion in Vietnam, accounting for a little over half of the population).
I checked into my second retreat, Alba Wellness Valley, 19 miles northwest of Hue City, tucked away at the foot of the Thanh Tan Mountain range. The bungalows, with the romantic mosquito-netting draping over the canopied beds, evokes a safari retreat — and the plentiful hiking paths and biking trails through the valley and up the mountainside are the perfect method for venturing into the wild. It was here that my father joined me on my trip — and he agreed the last time he’d felt so blissfully immersed in nature was at a tented oasis in the Maasai Mara.
Alba is also home to spectacular cuisine and friendly, engaging staff, and it was at Madame Chau Restaurant (which boasts panoramic views of the forest and Lotus Lake) that my love affair with pho and Saigon Coffee was solidified— pho for breakfast, pho for lunch, and pho for dinner. You’d think I’d have gotten sick of the noodles at some point, but I long for them even today. And, of course, wellness is an integral part of the retreat, which is located amidst the restorative Alba Hot Spring and its natural mineral drinking water. I enjoyed Onsen, sound healing, and hot stone treatments, and continued my—probably endless—journey of learning to let things go.
“Stop chasing happiness by trying to avoid sadness. Let them exist together” is a message intoned in the spa. The twice-daily yoga or meditation also freed me from over-analyzing and stressing about people and concerns back home and focus instead on the beauty that surrounds me. I realized this trip was not just an outward voyage into a part of the world I’d yet to explore, but an inner journey as well — restorative yet also enlightening, as if I was getting back in touch with what made me love travel to begin with and want to pursue it as a career. In the words of F. Scott Fitzgerald: “The world only exists in your eyes. You can make it as big or as small as you want.” My world had gotten too small, and I hadn’t noticed until I left it all behind.
Ho Chi Minh City: Fusion Original Saigon Centre
(Image provided by Katherine Parker-Magyar)
Last but most certainly not least: Ho Chi Minh City. After a quick flight from Hue, I checked into Fusion Original Saigon Centre, an urban oasis in the middle of the city. The swank accommodations are the perfect homebase for your stay in the bustling cosmopolitan city. The breakfast boasts spectacular, sweeping views of the skyscrapers, and dangerously delectable dumplings — even if you have an early flight home, it’s imperative you wake early so as not to miss this meal, trust me.
And, as part of Fusion Hotel Group alongside Alba Wellness Valley, the Saigon Centre offers spectacular spa treatments. I partook in the wellness treatments here, as well, and, though I was fully expecting for my newfound Zen to be as temporary and transient as the Buddhist understanding of life itself, it stayed with me long after I returned home. I did find myself internalizing these practices — circling the meditation bracelet and holding the breath stone I was given at Tia when I felt anxious. Practicing my breathing exercises to calm down.
I found I could take things I learned and incorporate them into my daily life. The importance of being present has stayed with me today, months later. In the words of Bill Murray: “I try to be available for life to happen to me.”
And it was easy to appreciate the thrills and wonders of life’s happenings in Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon). A visit to the War Museum is an absolute must, especially for Americans, as it recounts the Vietnam War through moving galleries and video. (In Vietnam, it’s known as the American War). Afterward, stroll the streets, explore the sidewalks and hidden corridors for local banh mi and tea shops. Enjoy the sounds of daily city life, and the ever-present buzz of Motorbikes flooding the streets. Motorbikes are the preferred method of travel, and each one is called “Honda,” regardless of the model since that was the first brand to really dominate the Vietnamese bike market. (Another fun fact — you’ll use Grab instead of Uber to get around in Southeast Asia).
Though daytime offers endless thrills, the city is at its best in the nighttime. Ho Chi Minh City is most resplendent when the sun goes down, and the magnificent architecture is illuminated by the shining city lights. My dad and I embarked on a ‘correspondent pub crawl,’ visiting the famous bars frequented by American journalists covering the War — from the Continental (order a Cool Sling al fresco to enjoy views of the ballet), to the Majestic, onto some live music at the Saigon Rooftop Bar in the Caravello and capping it all off with gin and tonics at the Rex Hotel.
Of course, this city — and that decadent evening excursion — is a great way to end your trip on a high night. (Plus, the airport has many international flights). Though, if you (understandably) don’t want the trip to be over, Ho Chi Minh City is also the meeting place for expeditions along the Mekong River — my next port of call in Vietnam. My father and I sailed aboard the AmaDara with AmaWaterways on a truly transcendent voyage towards Cambodia. Though that’s a tale for another day (maybe next month!), so check back again soon. Until then, start planning your next Vietnam vacation — nirvana, or near-nirvana — awaits. Happy travels!
